An Angkor Obsession

5/24/09

It is pretty common knowledge in my village that I travel around Cambodia a fair amount. Weekends in Phnom Penh, visits to volunteers in other provinces, the trip to Ratinakiri, etc. When students ask me what I like to do, I tell them I like to travel. They usually reply, “But when are you going to Siem Riep?” In fact, this is one of the most common questions I get asked.

For those of you that don’t know, Siem Riep is the province in which Angkor Wat is located. And Angkor Wat is huge here. Its image is everywhere; on the flag, on official documents, on a brand of beer, on shirts, in paintings, everywhere. And the Cambodians are incredibly proud of the place. I would say proud to the point of obsession.

In some ways, I can understand it. It was a remarkable feat for a 10th century society. It remains to this day the largest religious complex on Earth. And it is a huge draw for tourist, which (in theory) will provide more money for development (in practice all the money is siphoned away from Cambodia, either to government officials who simply pocket it or to foreign companies). And it is a very important part of Khmer culture, one that most Khmer don’t get to see (too expensive to take a vacation, much less travel to the other side of the country). But the obsession with me seeing it is a bit much.

“When will you go Siem Riep? I think maybe you should visit Siem Riep. Do you know Angkor Wat? It is very famous temple, you should visit.” All the time. I tell them I want to see other places in Cambodia, but sometimes I think they really can’t comprehend why someone would come to Cambodia and not spend the majority of their time planning a trip to Angkor Wat.

Because of the way I am, I’m half-tempted to never go.

...

But of course I will! Come on, how could I come to Cambodia and not do the touristy Angkor Wat trip? Maybe as soon as next month, even. But I’m pretty sure that after I get back and show the pictures to my class, the first question I am going to get is, “when will you go again?”